The reality is: healthy, glowing skin doesn’t happen by chance. It’s the result of understanding what’s occurring to your skin beneath the surface and giving it exactly what it needs to thrive. When it comes to radiance, one of the most misunderstood and undervalued steps in any skincare routine is exfoliation. 

From enhancing glow to improving skin tone and texture, exfoliation plays an undeniably powerful role in helping you achieve healthy, vibrant skin — but only when done correctly. 

In this ultimate guide to facial exfoliation, we’ll break down everything you need to know to exfoliate with confidence. This includes the science behind cell turnover, the benefits of exfoliation, the key differences and benefits of chemical and physical exfoliation. Lastly, we’ll give you practical guidance to help you learn how to exfoliate face, choose the right method for your skin, and teach you where this step fits into your overall skincare regimen. 

To understand what exfoliation is, how to exfoliate face, and why it’s imperative to all skin routines, there are a few things worth knowing about your skin physiology first, and the science behind skin shedding. Because when it comes to achieving smoother, brighter, healthier-looking skin, knowledge is just as important as your skincare lineup. Let’s get started!

You may have heard of this term before, but if not, you’re in the right place to unpack all of the science, without any confusion. Skin cell turnover is a natural process whereby your skin sheds dead cells and replaces them with new ones roughly every 28 days. However, a few factors can alter this.

Wondering what’s happening beneath the surface for this to occur? Before we delve into it, let’s quickly look at your skin physiology. Your skin consists of three distinct layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous layer. The layer you’ll likely hear dermatologists refer to the most is the epidermis — the thin outer layer of the skin that acts as a protective barrier. Within your epidermis, there are multiple layers, and the base layer is what’s responsible for producing new skin cells. Once produced, new skin cells slowly migrate to the surface, eventually die and shed from the skin, and are replaced by new ones. This is what is known as a skin cycle.

Fun fact: Every skin cell is working to a different skin cycle schedule. If they all ran on the same clock, our skin would shed like a snack, all at once.

The skin cycle goes through four crucial stages:

1. Proliferation: At the base of the epidermis, cells known as ‘keratinocytes’ divide and multiply rapidly — this process is what starts the skin cycle, and keeps it going.  

2. Migration: Once new cells are produced at the base layer, they travel through each of the epidermal layers until they reach the skin’s surface. Keratinocytes undergo many changes along the way (including changes in shape and structure).

3. Differentiation: This is where it gets super cool. During the keratinocytes' migration to the surface, they go through a process called differentiation, whereby they’re transformed into corneocytes, preparing them for ‘the outside world.’ Corneocytes are flat, tough cells that make up the stratum corneum (i.e., the outermost layer of the epidermis).

4. Desquamation: Upon reaching the stratum corneum, corneocytes play a crucial role in protecting your skin from harmful intruders. You may know this as the ‘skin barrier.’ As part of the natural shedding process, these cells gradually die and are shed, a process known as desquamation. Just think of it as a natural exfoliation process.

If you’re wondering why we need to intervene with the process since our skin already naturally has it under control, that’s a great question!

Unfortunately, while the skin is a well-oiled machine (literally and figuratively), there are certain factors that can impede your skin’s ability to naturally shed, including:

• Ageing

• Sun Damage

• Hormones

As we age, our skin’s natural cell renewal process slows down. What exactly does this mean? Our skin produces less oil, and we shed skin cells more slowly, leading to a buildup of dead skin cells on the skin’s surface.

While people in their 20s will experience a skin cell turnover cycle of 14 to 30 days, people beyond their 50s will experience the same cycle in 50 to 90 days. Not only this, but ageing also directly correlates with a slowing of our skin’s metabolic activity, meaning our collagen and elastin fibres (the two superheroes responsible for smooth, firm skin) also decrease.

Regular and excessive exposure to UV rays is another key contributor that disrupts your skin cycle.

But how? UV radiation, caused by harmful rays, damages skin cell DNA. Not only does this encourage premature ageing and increase your risk of skin cancer, but it also interferes with your skin’s natural regeneration and renewal.

Not to mention, your environment can also impair your skin’s shedding cycle. Cold weather, low humidity, and indoor heating are known to dry out your skin, which in turn increases dead skin buildup on the surface.

Certain hormonal fluctuations, such as those during puberty and menopause, can increase sebum (oil) production and clog pores.

Let’s break this one down a little further: when oil production increases, it mixes with dead skin cells on the skin, creating a waxy consistency. As a result, it impairs the dead skin cells’ ability to naturally shed, causing them to accumulate on the skin’s surface or within pores. This can also lead to acne breakouts.

Now that we’ve touched on the science behind skin shedding, you may be wondering what all of this means and why learning how to exfoliate face is so important. Let’s take a look at what happens when you don’t exfoliate:

Does your skin ever feel dull, ashy and a little lacklustre? This is most likely due to dead skin buildup on the surface. When our skin isn’t constantly renewing and shedding old skin cells, the accumulation of dead skin cells on the surface will create a rougher texture that results in uneven light reflection. This creates a dull-looking appearance.

The accumulation of dead skin cells can combine with natural skin oil and clog your pores. In turn, this can affect the natural shedding process, as dead skin becomes trapped, leading to breakouts.

As dead skin cells build up on the surface layer, they can give the appearance of rougher, duller skin, making your skin tone and texture look more uneven.

This one likely won’t come as much of a surprise. When our skin is freshly exfoliated, and we’re working with a clear canvas, our skincare products can absorb better and get to work faster and more effectively.

If you still associate facial exfoliation with harsh, grainy scrubs that leave your skin feeling tight and a little battered, you’ll be happy to know that modern exfoliation has come a long way. Today, facial exfoliation generally falls under two main categories: physical and chemical. Let’s unpack both options:

Physical or mechanical exfoliation works by gently removing dead skin cells through means of movement. Essentially, anything that physically removes skin cells is considered a physical or mechanical exfoliation method.

This exfoliation method involves using products and tools such as a scrub treatment, a brush, a sponge, a facial exfoliating device, or an exfoliating mitt. It also includes professional treatments such as microdermabrasion and dermaplaning.

Chemical exfoliation uses acids to loosen the glue-like bonds that hold dead skin cells together, allowing them to shed naturally. Despite the word ‘acid’ potentially sounding harsher on the skin, chemical exfoliation can be gentler than physical exfoliation because there’s less motion on the skin (depending on the chosen product, of course!). 

Chemical exfoliants include Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs (i.e., glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid), Beta Hydroxy Acids or BHAs (i.e., salicylic acid), and enzyme exfoliants (i.e., paw paw and pineapple). They also include professional-grade chemical peels.

Short answer: not necessarily. They’re simply different, and both serve unique purposes for different skin types and concerns. Let’s take a closer look at their benefits and limitations:

Quick recap: chemical exfoliants are acids and enzymes that weaken the bonds (aka glue) that hold your dead skin cells intact. Once the bonds are loosened, the dead skin cells naturally slough off your face.

Quick Recap: Physical or mechanical exfoliation uses physical motion to manually dislodge dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. This might include the use of grains, brushes, tools (like Dr Tanya’s NuSonic 2.0), and more.

Let’s take a closer look at the different methods used for physical exfoliation:

Face scrubs are cream- or gel-like, with small, gritty particles designed to be massaged into the skin. The small granules manually disrupt the buildup of dead skin and slough it off the face, resulting in a smoother, brighter complexion.

While extremely effective when done right, this method can be equally damaging to the skin barrier if not performed correctly or with the right product. Here are a few factors to consider if a face scrub is your preferred exfoliation method:

• Make sure the formula contains small grains, not large or jagged particles. The larger the particle, the higher the risk of micro-tearing the skin and damaging the skin barrier.

• Less is more when it comes to face scrubs: this method shouldn’t be done daily. Listen to your skin — you’ll know if you’re overdoing it because your skin will feel sensitive, irritated, or you’ll experience breakouts. That’s your skin barrier crying for help!

• Don’t use face scrubs on compromised skin: If you’ve got active acne, eczema, or sunburn, you will worsen it by physically exfoliating it.

This method includes a range of tools, including sponges, soft-bristled facial brushes, muslin cloths, and silicone cleansing pads. Their soft texture gently lifts away dead skin cells. It also includes gentle vibrating facial exfoliating tools, like Dr Tanya’s NuSonic 2.0 device, at-home microdermabrasion devices, and even dermaplaning tools, which gently shave off dead skin and fine facial hair.

Similar to face scrubs, exfoliating tools and devices can be highly effective when used correctly as part of a skin routine. However, if used too frequently, too roughly, or on the wrong skin type, it can cause skin damage and irritation. Always perform physical exfoliation gently and introduce it to your routine slowly.

In addition to at-home physical exfoliation, there is a third option: professional mechanical exfoliation.

• Microdermabrasion: A stronger, professional microdermabrasion performed by a trained professional. This involves using small crystals or a diamond-tipped device to gently exfoliate dead skin cells on the surface. This process doesn’t just buff away dead skin; it also stimulates circulation and collagen renewal, encouraging new skin growth.

• Dermaplaning: A clinical treatment performed by a skin professional that uses a sterile blade to carefully shave off a layer of dead skin cells and fine facial hair. While this can be performed at home, the risk of infection is lower in the clinic, and the tool used is of higher quality, equalling better results.

At this point, you’ve well and truly got the low-down on the science behind facial exfoliation and the different types and tools available to you. So, with all this theoretical knowledge, it’s time to get a little clearer on what approach your skin might benefit from. Let’s take a closer look at how to exfoliate face based on your skin type and skin concern.  

As always, skin is unique, so this should only be used as a guide. We recommend always consulting your doctor before starting any new skincare routines.

Note: It’s important to exfoliate according to your skin type. Please use the following as a guide, but be sure the exfoliation method is suitable for your particular skin type.

How often you should exfoliate your face will depend on two factors: (1) your skin type and (2) your exfoliation method.

It’s important to note that all skin is unique, so we always recommend speaking with your dermatologist to create a tailored routine for your skin’s specific needs. The following should simply be used as a guide:

One of the main reasons people shy away from exfoliation is the potential damage they could cause to their skin if they overdo it. If you fall into this category and you’ve been avoiding an extremely important step in your skin routine for far too long, let’s take a closer look at the telltale signs of over-exfoliating to look out for:

• Irritation or burning

• Redness and inflamed skin

• Peeling skin

• Increased sensitivity to other skincare products

If you’ve found yourself delving a little too deep into the world of facial exfoliation and you’re now in the thick of irritated, red, and all-around unhappy skin, here’s a quick guide to help you course correct and repair over-exfoliated skin.

First things first, if your skin is feeling red, raw, and irritable, we want to apply some products to help soothe the area and reduce the stinging. This could be something as simple as applying a cold compress to the face to help ease the burn.

Or, for something more powerful and beneficial in the long term, Dr Tanya’s Luxe Recovery Gel is intentionally designed to provide post-treatment skin relief and healing, making it the perfect solution for any skin that’s feeling compromised. Packed with Biotin, Vitamin B5, Retinyl Palmitate (an extremely gentle Vitamin A derivative), Squalane, and Aloe Vera, this formula supports deep hydration, skin barrier health, and skin soothing and repair.  It’s a great option for dry, sensitive, and combination skin types.

Once we’ve addressed the immediate discomfort caused by over-exfoliating, next up, we need to look at your skincare routine and put some things on pause.

Immediately stop using all foam cleansers (which can be extra drying), active ingredients, and all physical and chemical exfoliators. You’ll want to avoid any harsh ingredients, like those containing alcohol, intense fragrances, and sulphates.

Also, avoid any cosmetic treatments, such as laser, microneedling, waxing, threading, or facials. The goal here is to strip back your routine while your skin barrier repairs, and once the time is right, slowly reintroduce actives and exfoliants.

Last but certainly not least, we need to switch gears and think about repairing your skin barrier. Hydration is key here!

Opt for mild, hydrating products that are designed to nourish the skin. Think a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free hydrating moisturiser, and a good-quality sunscreen.

Look for skincare products that prioritise hydration, including:

• Humectants: These ingredients draw water into the cell to improve skin hydration.

• Ceramides (your skin barrier loves them!)

• Occlusives: While humectants draw hydration into cells, occlusives help seal it in.

There is no single answer to this question as it depends entirely on the type of exfoliating product you’re using. Let’s have a look at a few of the different options and where they’d fit in your skincare routine:

There are so many ways to manually exfoliate your skin. Please note that the following suggestions should not all be used in one routine. We recommend sticking to just one physical exfoliant to avoid causing irritation. Let’s take a closer look at how you could add a physical exfoliant to your skincare routine:

Use a cleanser that is suitable for your skin type, following the product’s instructions. Once you've finished massaging the product into your skin, use a microfibre cloth to rinse it off and remove any dirt, dead skin, or bacteria that may be sitting on your skin.

Your skincare routine could look like: cleanse + microfibre cloth rinse → AM/PM serums → eye cream → moisturiser → SPF (AM).

If you’re using an exfoliating device like Dr Tanya’s NuSonic 2.0, this is where you’d use it. Before rinsing off your cream cleanser, gently glide the NuSonic at a 90-degree angle across the skin in an outward motion, using the cleanser to help move the device. Then, rinse your cleanser off and pat your skin dry before proceeding with the rest of your skincare steps.

Your skincare routine could look like: cleanse + exfoliating device → AM/PM serums → eye cream → moisturiser → SPF50+ (AM).

If you’re opting for a gentle face scrub, this step will occur after cleansing your face. There’s no need to pat your face dry, as you’ll need water to help move the small granules to lift bacteria and dead skin. Be sure to always opt for a gentle formula with micrograins, steering clear of anything too large. Once complete, pat your skin dry and continue with the rest of your skincare steps.

Your skincare routine could look like: cleanse (don’t dry) → face scrub → AM/PM serums → eye cream → moisturiser → SPF50+

Similar to physical exfoliation, chemical exfoliators come in many forms, so they can slot into a few different spots in your routine. Let’s take a closer look at a few of the options available:

You can incorporate a gentle chemical exfoliant into the first step of your skincare routine. For example, Dr Tanya’s Miracle Cream Cleanser contains 5% Glycolic Acid (AHA), as well as nourishing botanicals and vitamins to gently exfoliate the skin while you cleanse.

Many serum formulas contain AHAs or BHAs to help gently exfoliate the skin. You’ll often find these paired with supporting ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, panthenol, and glycerin.

You can also find higher-strength acids in peel or mask form. Depending on their strength, these may only require you to leave them on for a short time and may be used less frequently due to their potency.

Similarly to serums, you’ll find many moisturisers combine AHAs with hydrating ingredients to deliver a formula that nourishes while gently clearing and brightening the skin.

For example, Dr Tanya’s Radiant Day Cream contains the nourishing and soothing properties of Aloe Vera, the exfoliating benefits of Lactic and Glycolic Acid (AHAs), and the skin brightening and barrier-supporting benefits of Niacinamide.

Cleanser→ Mask/Peel (optional) → Serums → Eye Cream → Moisturiser → SPF (AM)

Note: SPF should always be used during the day as chemical exfoliants make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

The verdict is in: Exfoliation is simply no longer an optional step in your skincare routine — it’s a foundational necessity for maintaining healthy, radiant skin. 

Moreover, modern exfoliation is no longer about one-size-fits-all approaches and harsh scrubs destined to do more damage than good. With the right theoretical knowledge — understanding skin cell turnover and ingredient science — coupled with practical advice — how to exfoliate face, what each skin type needs, how to use chemical and physical exfoliants —  you can tailor your exfoliation routine to support your unique skin’s needs.